Genetics

You’re settling in for the evening, and suddenly your dog is doing that thing again—pawing at the couch cushions, circling obsessively, and burrowing themselves into a cocoon of blankets and pillows until only their nose (maybe) is visible. Or perhaps you’ve found them completely entombed under your bed pillows, looking utterly content in their fabric cave.

Is this normal? Should you worry? And more importantly—what is your dog trying to tell you?

As a Family Dog Mediator, I’m constantly reminding families that there are no problem behaviors, only unmet needs waiting to be understood. And burrowing? This is one of those behaviors that beautifully illustrates why we need to look at the whole dog—their genetics, their environment, what they’ve learned, and their individual self—rather than applying one-size-fits-all explanations.

The Ancestral Blueprint: Genetics at Work

Let’s start with the G in L.E.G.S.—Genetics. Your dog’s desire to burrow isn’t random; it’s likely written into their DNA.

Wild canids—wolves, foxes, coyotes—are denning animals. They seek out or create enclosed spaces for safety, warmth, and raising young. Dens protect them from predators, harsh weather, and provide a secure place to rest. Even though your dog has never had to dig a den in the wild, these ancestral instincts remain powerful drivers of behavior.

But here’s where it gets really interesting: not all dogs burrow equally, and breed matters enormously.

Think about terriers—dogs literally bred to go to ground, to pursue prey into burrows and tunnels. A Jack Russell Terrier burrowing under your duvet isn’t being quirky; they’re doing exactly what generations of selective breeding designed them to do. Dachshunds? Same story. These “badger dogs” were bred to tunnel into underground dens.

Then you have the Nordic breeds—your Huskies, Malamutes, and Samoyeds—who were bred to sleep in the snow. They naturally dig shallow nests to create windbreaks and insulation. Your Husky rearranging your couch cushions into a nest? That’s genetic memory at work.

Even breeds not specifically bred for earth work often show burrowing behaviors. Many small companion breeds (Chihuahuas, Italian Greyhounds, Chinese Cresteds) seek warmth and security under covers, likely because their small size and sometimes lower cold tolerance makes enclosed spaces feel safer and more comfortable.

Environment: Reading the Room (and the Temperature)

The E in L.E.G.S. reminds us that environment shapes behavior constantly. And burrowing behavior is deeply influenced by environmental factors.

Temperature regulation is huge here. Dogs don’t thermoregulate the way we do. A 68-degree house that feels perfectly comfortable to you might feel chilly to a 12-pound Italian Greyhound with minimal body fat and short coat. Burrowing under blankets creates a microclimate—a warm, insulated space that’s just right.

Conversely, some dogs burrow to stay cool, creating a barrier between themselves and direct heat sources, or seeking the cooler layer between cushions and couch.

Sensory environment matters too. Our modern homes are full of stimulation—doorbells, delivery trucks, neighbors, televisions, the hum of appliances. For some dogs, especially those who are sensitive or anxious, burrowing creates a sensory buffer. It’s not unlike how we might put on noise-canceling headphones or retreat to a quiet room when we’re overstimulated.

Consider also the emotional environment of your home. Dogs are incredible social learners and emotional barometers. Research on social referencing in dogs shows us that dogs constantly look to us for cues about how to feel about their environment. If there’s tension, stress, or unpredictability in the household, your dog might burrow more as a coping mechanism—creating a safe, predictable space they can control.

Learning: What Experience Has Taught Them

The L in L.E.G.S. is all about learning, and dogs are learning from their experiences every moment.

Maybe the first time your dog burrowed under a blanket, they discovered it was wonderfully cozy. That positive experience created an association: blanket cave = good feelings. Classical conditioning at its finest. Now, every time they seek comfort, warmth, or security, they remember that sensation and seek it out again.

Or perhaps your dog learned that burrowing gets them something they value. Do you think it’s adorable when they burrow? Do you laugh, take photos, give them attention? Congratulations—you’ve positively reinforced the behavior. This isn’t a bad thing! But it’s important to recognize that what we pay attention to, we get more of.

Some dogs learn that burrowing is a pre-sleep ritual, part of their wind-down routine. Just as we might read before bed or listen to white noise, your dog has learned that making a nest signals rest time.

And here’s something many people don’t consider: dogs who experienced stress, inadequate shelter, or cold temperatures in their past (especially rescues or dogs from uncertain backgrounds) may have learned that creating their own warm, enclosed space is essential for survival. That learning doesn’t just disappear because they’re now in a safe home—it can take time and consistent positive experiences to update those associations.

Self: Your Individual Dog’s Unique Needs

Finally, we get to the S in L.E.G.S.—Self. This is about your specific dog, their individual temperament, their current emotional state, their age, health, and preferences.

Age matters. Puppies often burrow because they’re used to being piled with littermates, and they’re seeking that warmth and companionship. Senior dogs might burrow more because they feel achy, cold more easily, or need extra security as their senses decline.

Emotional state is crucial. A dog experiencing anxiety, fear, or stress might burrow as a self-soothing behavior. Pay attention to when the burrowing increases. Is it during thunderstorms? When visitors come over? When you’re away? This behavior might be telling you something important about your dog’s emotional needs.

Health considerations can’t be ignored either. Dogs in pain sometimes seek out soft, supportive surfaces and enclosed spaces. A dog who suddenly starts burrowing more might be dealing with joint pain, a fever, or gastrointestinal discomfort. If the behavior changes significantly or seems excessive, a vet check is always warranted.

Individual personality plays a role too. Some dogs are just more comfort-seeking, more nest-oriented, more “den dogs” than others—even within the same breed. Just as some humans are natural homebodies who love being cocooned in blankets while others prefer open spaces, dogs have individual preferences.

What Your Dog’s Burrowing Might Be Telling You

So when you see your dog burrowing, what should you be thinking about?

“Am I meeting my dog’s breed-specific needs?” If you have a terrier who burrows constantly, are they getting enough appropriate outlets for those earth-dog instincts? Snuffle mats, dig boxes, and tunnel toys might give them a healthier way to express those genetic drives.

“Is my home’s environment comfortable for my specific dog?” That 70-degree thermostat setting might be perfect for you but uncomfortable for your thin-coated, low-body-fat companion. A heating pad, dog bed with raised sides, or additional blanket access might make a huge difference.

“What is my dog’s emotional state?” If burrowing has increased, what else has changed? Are they getting enough mental stimulation? Physical exercise? Decompression time? Are there new stressors in the home? Dogs don’t burrow to spite us or because they’re “weird”—they’re communicating something about their needs.

“Is this behavior part of their natural, healthy repertoire or a sign something needs attention?” A dog who occasionally burrows and seems content is probably just doing dog things. A dog who suddenly starts burrowing obsessively, seems unable to settle, or shows other changes in behavior needs our attention—and possibly professional help.

Supporting Your Burrowing Dog

Rather than trying to stop burrowing (unless it’s truly problematic), consider supporting it:

• Provide appropriate outlets. Dog beds with built-in covers, blankets they’re allowed to nest with, or even a designated “burrow spot” on the couch.
• Respect their need for a den space. If your dog creates a blanket cave, let them have it. This might be how they decompress and feel safe.
• Monitor for changes. Sudden increases or decreases in burrowing behavior warrant attention.
• Consider the whole picture. Use the L.E.G.S. framework to understand what your dog might need. Is it warmth? Security? An outlet for genetic drives? Mental enrichment? Physical exercise?

The Bottom Line

Your dog’s burrowing behavior isn’t random, isn’t “just being weird,” and definitely isn’t something to punish or discourage without understanding the need behind it. Like all behavior, it’s communication—your dog telling you something about who they are, what they need, and how they’re experiencing their environment.

When we stop seeing behaviors as problems to fix and start seeing them as needs to understand, we become better advocates for our dogs. We move from asking “how do I make them stop?” to asking “what are they trying to tell me?”—and that shift changes everything.

Because at the end of the day, your burrowing dog isn’t being difficult. They’re being a dog—wonderfully, perfectly, individually themselves. And that deserves our understanding, not our judgment.

Does your dog burrow? What have you learned about what they’re communicating through this behavior? Understanding the needs behind the nest might be the key to meeting your dog where they are.

We’ve all heard the advice: “A tired dog is a good dog.” But here’s what most people miss—the way your dog gets tired depends entirely on what they were bred to do.

When we talk about “walking” our dogs, we often think it’s all about the physical exercise—the distance covered, the steps taken. But for many dogs, that’s missing the point entirely. Understanding your dog’s breed group helps you meet their needs in ways that actually matter to them.

Let’s break down what “going for a walk” truly means for each of the 10 breed groups.

1. Scent Hounds: It’s All About the Nose

For your Beagle, Bloodhound, or Coonhound, walking isn’t really about walking at all—it’s about smelling. These dogs were bred to follow scent trails for miles, often with their noses glued to the ground.

What they actually need: Long, leisurely sniff walks where they can fully investigate scents. Think 20 minutes of dedicated sniffing over an hour of brisk walking. Let them work those incredible noses—it’s mentally exhausting in the best way.

The payoff: A scent hound who’s been allowed to properly use their nose will come home cognitively spent and satisfied.

2. Sight Hounds: The Need for Speed

Greyhounds, Whippets, and Salukis were built to spot movement from a distance and chase it down in explosive bursts of speed. A slow neighborhood stroll? That’s like asking a sprinter to only ever walk laps.

What they actually need: Safe opportunities to run—really run. This might mean a securely fenced area, a long line in an open space, or lure coursing activities. Yes, they also need gentle leash walks, but those don’t scratch the itch to stretch their legs at full speed.

The payoff: Even just 10-15 minutes of hard running can satisfy their genetic need in ways hours of slow walking cannot.

3. Livestock Guardians: Patrol and Surveillance

Your Great Pyrenees, Anatolian Shepherd, or Maremma wasn’t bred to hike with you—they were bred to patrol a perimeter and make independent decisions about potential threats.

What they actually need: Walks that allow them to move at their own pace, pause to survey their environment, and check things out. They need to feel like they’re monitoring their territory, not being rushed through it. These dogs often prefer to walk with you rather than be directed by you.

The payoff: Slower, more deliberate walks where they can stop, look, and assess. They’re working security detail, not training for a marathon.

4. Herding Dogs: Motion and Purpose

Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, and Belgian Malinois were bred to work all day moving livestock with precision and focus. A simple walk around the block? That’s not even a warm-up for these dogs.

What they actually need: Movement with a job attached. This might mean structured training during walks, practicing tricks, playing fetch with direction changes, or even walking with a purpose like carrying a backpack. They crave engaged movement—not just distance.

The payoff: Mental engagement plus physical activity. A herding dog who’s been asked to think while moving will be genuinely satisfied.

5. Northern/Spitz Breeds: The Long Haul

Huskies, Malamutes, and Samoyeds were bred to pull sleds over long distances in harsh conditions. They have endurance for days and often a strong desire to just keep going.

What they actually need: Longer adventures where they can move steadily—hiking, bikejoring, or pulling activities. These dogs often need more distance and duration than other breeds, and they typically love cooler weather for it.

The payoff: True aerobic exercise that taps into their cardiovascular stamina. A 20-minute walk barely touches their capacity.

6. Terriers: Hunt and Dig

Jack Russells, Cairn Terriers, and Airedales were bred to hunt vermin—to dig, chase, grab, and shake. They’re tenacious, determined, and always “on.”

What they actually need: Walks that incorporate opportunities to dig (in appropriate spots), investigate holes and crevices, and play tug or chase games. These dogs benefit from activities that let them “hunt” and use their grab-and-shake behaviors appropriately.

The payoff: A terrier who’s gotten to express these natural behaviors will be much more settled than one who’s just walked on pavement.

7. Gun Dogs/Sporting Dogs: Retrieve and Range

Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Spaniels, and Pointers were bred to work with hunters—finding, flushing, and retrieving game. They love having a job and using their mouths.

What they actually need: Walks that incorporate retrieval games, swimming (when possible), and ranging behaviors. Let them carry something on walks, practice retrieves, or search for hidden objects. They’re happiest when they’re working with you.

The payoff: Physical exercise combined with the satisfaction of doing what their bodies were designed to do—carry things, swim, and hunt cooperatively.

8. World Dogs: Generalist Survivors

Village dogs, mixed breeds, and dogs without specific breed functions fall into this category. These are the ultimate generalists—adaptable dogs who weren’t bred for a single purpose but rather to survive and thrive in diverse environments.

What they actually need: World Dogs are often the most flexible of all groups. They typically benefit from variety—different routes, different types of activities, opportunities to problem-solve. Many are naturally balanced between physical and mental stimulation needs, though individual variation is high.

The payoff: Adaptability is their strength. A walk that offers novelty, choice, and opportunities to engage naturally with their environment often satisfies them best. Think enrichment through exploration.

9. Bull & Terriers: Power and Intensity

American Pit Bull Terriers, Staffordshire Bull Terriers, and American Bulldogs were bred for strength, determination, and intense focus. They bring enthusiasm and power to everything they do.

What they actually need: Structured walks with clear boundaries, plus outlets for their strength like pulling activities (drag weights, spring poles used appropriately) or power play. They benefit from activities that let them use their impressive physical strength purposefully.

The payoff: These dogs need both physical outlets and mental structure. They thrive when their power is channeled into appropriate activities.

10. Companions/Toy Dogs: Social Connection

Cavaliers, Pugs, Maltese, and Havanese were bred primarily to be with people. While they still need exercise, their primary need is often social engagement and proximity to their humans.

What they actually need: Walks are as much about being with you as they are about exercise. These dogs often enjoy social walks where they can meet people, shorter adventures that match their size, and activities focused on connection.

The payoff: A walk where they feel connected to you meets their deepest genetic need—companionship.

The Bottom Line

When we say “walk your dog,” we’re often oversimplifying what our dogs actually need. Understanding your dog’s genetic blueprint helps you meet their real needs, not just tire them out.

• Is your dog physically exhausted but still anxious? Maybe they need different mental stimulation.
• Does your dog seem unfulfilled despite long walks? Perhaps you’re missing what they were actually bred to do.
• Is your dog pulling you down the street while ignoring everything you say? They might need a completely different kind of outing.

The most important walk isn’t the longest one or the fastest one—it’s the one that honors who your dog actually is. When you align your walks with your dog’s genetic needs, you’ll find both of you coming home more satisfied.

Understanding your dog through the lens of genetics is just one part of the L.E.G.S.® framework (Learning, Environment, Genetics, Self). When we honor all four components, we create truly harmonious relationships with our dogs.

If I had a dollar for every time someone told me “just be consistent and use positive reinforcement,” as if that’s all it takes to solve every dog behavior issue, I could probably afford a lifetime supply of high-value treats. The problem isn’t that consistency and positive reinforcement are wrong—they’re foundational. The problem is the assumption that a universal method applied the same way will work equally well for every dog.

The science of dog cognition tells us something very different: dogs are individuals shaped by complex, interacting factors that make generic training approaches ineffective at best and harmful at worst.

The Science Behind Individual Differences

Research in dog cognition, particularly the work of Brian Hare and his colleagues, has fundamentally changed our understanding of how dogs learn and behave. We now know that dogs are incredibly sophisticated social learners who don’t simply respond to commands like biological robots. They’re constantly reading our emotional states, anticipating behavior patterns, and adapting to the complex social structures we create around them.

What researchers call “social referencing”—the way dogs look to humans for information about how to respond to situations—means that dogs are processing far more than just whether they’ll get a treat for sitting. They’re reading tension in your voice, inconsistencies between family members, and the emotional climate of your household. A Border Collie in a chaotic, unpredictable home will show completely different behaviors than the same genetic dog in a calm, structured environment.

This is why the one-size-fits-all approach falls apart: it ignores the reality that dog behavior emerges from the interaction of multiple complex systems, not just training technique.

The L.E.G.S.® Framework: Understanding the Whole Dog

The L.E.G.S.® framework—which examines Learning, Environment, Genetics, and Self—provides a science-based structure for understanding why generic training methods fail to address the root causes of behavior.

Learning: Context Is Everything

Dogs don’t learn in a vacuum. A dog who can “sit” perfectly at home might completely fall apart at the dog park. Their learning is context-dependent, affected by stress levels, excitement, environmental factors, and their emotional state.

Generic training programs assume that if you teach a behavior in one context, the dog should be able to perform it everywhere. But research shows this isn’t how learning works for dogs (or humans, for that matter). Learning is state-dependent and context-specific.

A reactive dog who’s in a heightened state of arousal isn’t “refusing” to respond to previously learned commands—their nervous system is in survival mode, and the cognitive centers required for learned behaviors are temporarily offline. Telling their owner to “just be more consistent” ignores the neurological reality of what’s happening in that dog’s brain.

Environment: More Than Just Physical Space

When we talk about environment in the L.E.G.S.® framework, we’re not just talking about whether you have a yard or live in an apartment. We’re talking about the emotional climate of the household, the predictability of routines, the level of chaos or calm, and the consistency (or inconsistency) of human behavior.

I’ve seen “difficult” dogs transform almost overnight when moved to a more structured, emotionally stable environment—with zero change in training methods. Because the issue wasn’t training technique; it was that the dog was living in a state of chronic stress from an unpredictable, emotionally charged household.

Generic training programs can’t account for this. They assume all dogs are living in reasonably stable environments with consistent caregivers. For many dogs, that assumption is false.

Genetics: Bred for Different Jobs, Wired for Different Behaviors

Here’s where the science gets really clear about why one-size-fits-all fails: dogs were selectively bred for thousands of years to perform specific jobs, and those genetic predispositions don’t disappear just because we’re not using them for their original purposes anymore.

A Border Collie’s herding instincts, a terrier’s prey drive, a guardian breed’s suspicion of strangers, a retriever’s desire to carry objects—these aren’t “behavior problems” that need correcting. They’re genetically ingrained traits that were deliberately selected for over hundreds of generations.

Training a guardian breed to be immediately friendly with strangers goes against their genetic wiring. You can manage it, you can teach impulse control, but you’re fighting biology. Similarly, trying to train a high-drive herding breed to be calm and sedate in a small apartment with minimal mental stimulation isn’t a training challenge—it’s an impossible ask.

Generic training programs often treat all “problem behaviors” the same way, as if reactivity in a German Shepherd happens for the same reasons and requires the same approach as reactivity in a Cocker Spaniel. The science tells us this is nonsense. Genetics matter enormously, and effective behavior modification must account for breed-specific traits and individual temperament.

Self: Every Dog Is an Individual

Even within breeds, every dog is unique. Litter mates raised in identical environments can have vastly different temperaments, stress responses, and learning styles. Some dogs are more resilient, some more sensitive. Some are food-motivated, some aren’t. Some have higher arousal thresholds, some are constantly vigilant.

This individual variation means that what works beautifully for one dog might completely fail for another—even dogs of the same breed, same age, and same household.

I’ve worked with families who have two dogs from the same litter. One responds beautifully to standard positive reinforcement protocols. The other finds food rewards overstimulating and actually performs better with calm praise and environmental rewards. Same genetics, same environment, completely different individuals.

Why the Generic Approach Causes Harm

When we apply one-size-fits-all training methods without considering these factors, we don’t just fail to solve problems—we often create new ones.

The anxious dog who needs predictability and calm gets subjected to high-energy, stimulation-based training that escalates their stress.

The high-drive working breed gets told they’re “too excited” and needs to “calm down” when what they actually need is appropriate outlets for their genetic drives.

The guardian breed gets labeled “aggressive” for being suspicious of strangers when they’re simply doing exactly what they were bred to do.

The sensitive dog gets labeled “stubborn” when they shut down from training methods that feel too forceful for their temperament.

In every case, the failure isn’t the dog’s. It’s the training approach that refuses to see the individual in front of them.

What Actually Works: Individualized, Science-Based Approaches

Effective dog behavior support isn’t about finding the “right” training method. It’s about understanding the whole dog—their learning history, their environment, their genetics, and their individual personality—and creating an approach that works WITH those factors rather than against them.

This means:

• Assessing the dog’s environment and emotional climate before assuming the issue is purely behavioral
• Understanding breed-specific traits and working with genetic predispositions rather than fighting them
• Recognizing individual differences in temperament, sensitivity, and learning style
• Adjusting expectations based on realistic understanding of what’s possible for this specific dog
• Addressing root causes (stress, unmet needs, unclear communication) rather than just suppressing symptoms

The Bottom Line

The science is clear: dogs are complex individuals shaped by learning history, environmental factors, genetics, and unique personalities. One-size-fits-all training ignores this complexity and treats dogs as interchangeable units that should all respond identically to the same methods.

They’re not. And they won’t.

Real behavior change comes from understanding the specific dog in front of you and creating an individualized approach that addresses their actual needs—not just applying a generic protocol and hoping for the best.

The dogs have been trying to tell us this all along. Maybe it’s time we started listening.