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How Time Change Affects Dogs (And How to Help Them Adjust)

October 28, 2025 by Jenn Tan Leave a Comment

We will be “falling back” an hour, and while you might be celebrating that extra hour of sleep, your dog’s internal clock didn’t get the memo. That’s because dogs don’t understand daylight saving time—and honestly, why should they? Their bodies are regulated by natural rhythms, routines, and the predictable patterns you’ve established together as a family.

If your dog has been waking you up an hour earlier than usual, pacing by the door when it’s not quite walk time, or seeming confused about meal schedules, you’re not imagining it. The time change genuinely affects our dogs, sometimes more significantly than it affects us. Let’s talk about why this happens and, more importantly, what we can do to help our dogs—and ourselves—through this biannual disruption.

Why Dogs Are So Affected by Time Changes

Unlike humans who can intellectually understand “the clocks changed,” dogs experience time through their circadian rhythms, routine patterns, and their deep attunement to family rhythms. When we suddenly shift everything by an hour, we’re essentially disrupting their entire understanding of how the day flows.

Dogs Are Creatures of Rhythm and Routine

Think about it from your dog’s perspective. They know that breakfast happens when the house smells a certain way, when light comes through the windows at a particular angle, when you shuffle into the kitchen in your robe. They know walk time by the way your energy shifts, by environmental cues, by the settling of the household. These aren’t just habits—they’re how dogs make sense of their world and feel secure in it.

When we change the clocks, we’re not just shifting numbers on a screen. We’re changing when they eat, when they go outside, when they get exercise, when the house gets quiet for sleep. For a species that thrives on predictability and reads the environment constantly for cues about what happens next, this is genuinely disorienting.

Their Bodies Don’t Know What Time It Is

Dogs operate on circadian rhythms just like we do—internal biological clocks that regulate sleep-wake cycles, hunger, body temperature, and hormone production. These rhythms are influenced by natural light cycles, not by what our phones tell us.

So when daylight saving time ends in fall and it suddenly gets dark much earlier in the evening, your dog’s body is still expecting dinner, play, and wind-down time based on natural light cues. When spring arrives and we “spring forward,” your dog’s body might still need sleep when you’re trying to get them up and active. Their internal clock takes time to adjust—usually about a week or so—and during that adjustment period, behaviors can emerge that communicate their confusion and unmet needs.

What You Might Notice in Your Dog

Every dog responds to disrupted rhythms differently, depending on their genetics, age, stress levels, and how rigid their daily routine typically is. You might see:

Changes in wake-up times: Your dog suddenly acting as their internal alarm clock at what is now 5 AM on your clock but still feels like 6 AM to them.

Appetite shifts: Seeming hungrier earlier or less interested in meals at the “new” time because their digestive system is still on the old schedule.

Bathroom urgency: Needing to go out earlier than usual or having accidents because their biological rhythms haven’t caught up with your new schedule.

Restlessness or anxiety: Pacing, whining, or seeming unsettled because the predictable patterns they rely on suddenly feel “off.”

Energy level mismatches: Being sleepy when you need them active or hyperactive when you’re trying to wind down for the evening.

Increased shadowing or clinginess: Following you more closely because the disrupted routine creates mild stress, and you are their secure base.

These aren’t “bad behaviors” or disobedience—they’re communication. Your dog is telling you that something in their world feels unpredictable right now, and they need help reestablishing security and rhythm.

How to Help Your Dog Adjust: Practical Strategies

The good news is that you can help your dog transition more smoothly through some thoughtful, gradual approaches that honor their need for predictability while gently shifting their schedule.

Start with Gradual Shifts (If Possible)

If you’re reading this before the time change happens, you can help your dog adjust by gradually shifting their schedule by 10-15 minutes every couple of days in the week leading up to the change. Move mealtimes, walk times, and bedtime routines slightly earlier (in fall) or slightly later (in spring) so the one-hour shift isn’t so abrupt.

If you’re reading this after the fact (like most of us), don’t worry—you can still use this gradual approach going forward. Rather than forcing the new schedule immediately, meet your dog where they are and shift incrementally.

Maintain Consistent Routines (Even If Times Shift)

While the clock times are changing, keep the sequence and structure of your routines exactly the same. If your morning routine is: wake up, potty break, breakfast, walk, settle time—keep that exact sequence even if each element is happening at a different hour. The predictability of the pattern helps your dog feel secure even as the timing shifts.

The ritual matters more than the clock time. Dogs don’t wear watches, but they understand sequence, rhythm, and the emotional energy you bring to each part of the day.

Use Natural Light to Your Advantage

Since dogs’ circadian rhythms respond to natural light, use daylight exposure to help reset their internal clocks:

  • Morning light exposure: Get your dog outside into natural daylight as early as possible in the morning. This helps signal to their body that it’s time to be awake and active.
  • Evening dimming: As it gets dark earlier in fall, use that natural darkness as a cue to begin wind-down routines earlier than you did before. Close curtains, dim lights, and create a calm environment that matches the darkness outside.
  • Quality walks: Prioritize walks during daylight hours when possible, as the combination of exercise, natural light, and environmental enrichment supports healthy circadian rhythm regulation.

Adjust Exercise and Enrichment Timing

Your dog’s energy needs haven’t changed, but when they need to burn that energy might feel different during the transition. If your dog is suddenly wired at 8 PM when they used to be settling down, they might need an extra enrichment opportunity earlier in the evening. If they’re sleepy during what used to be play time, they might benefit from a gentler activity or allowing them to rest.

Pay attention to your individual dog’s energy patterns during this adjustment period rather than rigidly sticking to what “should” be happening at certain times.

Be Patient with Bathroom Schedules

During the adjustment period, your dog’s digestive system and bathroom needs might not align perfectly with your new schedule. This is especially true for puppies, senior dogs, and dogs with any health issues.

  • Offer extra bathroom breaks during the first week
  • Don’t punish accidents—they’re not defiance, they’re biology
  • If your dog is waking you earlier for bathroom needs, respond to them; their body genuinely needs to go

Remember: bathroom needs are physiological, not behavioral issues. Responding with patience rather than frustration helps your dog feel safe during an already confusing time.

Consider Individual Differences

Not all dogs adjust at the same pace, and that’s completely normal. Factors that influence adjustment include:

Age: Puppies and senior dogs may have a harder time adjusting because their systems are either still developing or becoming less flexible.

Breed genetics: Some breeds are more adaptable to change, while guardian breeds or those with strong routine-oriented genetics may find disruptions more stressful.

Stress levels: If your dog is already experiencing other stressors (recent move, changes in family, health issues), the time change may compound their stress.

Routine rigidity: Dogs who thrive on very precise routines may need more gradual transitions than more flexible dogs.

This is where the L.E.G.S.® framework becomes helpful—considering your dog’s Learning history, Environment, Genetics, and Self (including health, age, and stress levels) allows you to individualize your approach rather than following one-size-fits-all advice.

Don’t Forget: You’re Adjusting Too

Here’s something we often overlook: if you’re feeling grumpy, tired, or out of sorts from the time change, your dog is picking up on that energy. Dogs are masters of social referencing—they look to us for cues about whether things are okay or not. If we’re stressed about the disrupted schedule, rushing through routines, or feeling irritable about the earlier wake-up calls, our dogs feel that tension.

Take care of yourself during this transition too. Be gentle with yourself if things feel chaotic for a few days. Your own adjustment supports your dog’s adjustment because you’re a system, not separate beings operating independently.

When to Seek Additional Support

For most dogs, time change adjustment is temporary and resolves within 7-10 days with patience and gradual schedule shifts. However, some situations warrant additional support:

  • If your dog’s anxiety or stress behaviors escalate rather than improve after two weeks
  • If bathroom accidents continue beyond the adjustment period
  • If your dog seems genuinely distressed rather than just confused
  • If the disruption reveals underlying anxiety or routine-dependency that might benefit from behavior support

These signs don’t mean anything is “wrong” with your dog—they simply indicate they might benefit from individualized support to build flexibility and resilience around routine changes.

The Bigger Picture: Building Flexibility

While we’re focused on this specific time change, there’s a broader principle here: helping dogs develop flexibility around routines while still honoring their need for predictability is one of the most valuable things we can do for their long-term wellbeing.

Life doesn’t always happen on schedule. We get sick, family schedules change, emergencies arise, we travel. Dogs who can tolerate some variation in routine while maintaining a sense of security are more resilient and less stressed overall.

You can build this flexibility gradually by occasionally varying minor aspects of routines intentionally—sometimes breakfast happens in the kitchen, sometimes on the porch; sometimes walks go clockwise around the block, sometimes counterclockwise. Small variations within a generally predictable structure help dogs learn that change doesn’t equal danger.

Moving Forward

The time change is temporary, and your dog will adjust. In the meantime, offer patience, maintain the structure and rituals that create security, and remember that any “difficult” behaviors are simply your dog communicating that their world feels a little uncertain right now.

You’re not doing anything wrong if your dog struggles with this transition. You’re not failing if they wake you up too early or seem confused about schedules. You’re just living with a being whose internal clock runs on rhythms older and deeper than human inventions like daylight saving time.

Meet them where they are. Adjust gradually. Stay connected to the routines and rituals that create safety. And before you know it, everyone in your household will have found their rhythm again—at least until we do this all over again in spring.

Filed Under: Insights

Obedience vs. Enrichment: Why Your Dog Needs More Than Commands

October 20, 2025 by Jenn Tan Leave a Comment

Photo by Phil Robson on Unsplash

When families reach out to dog trainers, they often start with the same request: “We need our dog to be more obedient.” They want their dog to sit on command, walk perfectly on leash, come when called, and stop doing all those annoying dog things—the jumping, the barking, the counter surfing, the midnight zoomies.

But here’s what I’ve come to understand through my work with families and their dogs, informed by the science of dog cognition and behavior: obedience and enrichment are fundamentally different approaches to living with dogs, and only one of them actually addresses what your dog needs.

Let me explain why understanding this difference might completely transform your relationship with your dog.

What Obedience Really Is (And What It Isn’t)

Obedience training focuses on teaching dogs to perform specific behaviors on cue—sit, stay, down, come, heel. It’s about compliance, control, and getting your dog to do what you want, when you want it. Traditional obedience asks dogs to suppress their natural behaviors and respond to human commands regardless of what they’re feeling or needing in that moment.

Don’t get me wrong—having a dog who understands basic cues can be helpful for safety and household harmony. Knowing “wait” at doorways or “leave it” when they spot something potentially dangerous on a walk serves a practical purpose.

But obedience training alone doesn’t ask the most important question: Why is your dog doing the behavior you’re trying to stop?

When we focus exclusively on obedience, we’re treating dogs like machines that need programming rather than sentient beings with complex emotional lives, genetic predispositions, environmental needs, and individual learning histories. We’re asking them to perform without considering what they’re trying to communicate through their behavior.

Understanding Enrichment: Meeting Needs, Not Demanding Compliance

Enrichment takes a completely different approach. Instead of asking “How do I make my dog stop doing that?”, enrichment asks “What does my dog need that they’re not getting?”

Enrichment is about providing opportunities for dogs to engage in species-appropriate behaviors that fulfill their genetic, environmental, emotional, and cognitive needs. It’s grounded in understanding the L.E.G.S.® framework—Learning, Environment, Genetics, and Self—which recognizes that behavior isn’t random or a training failure. It’s information about what’s working and what’s missing in a dog’s life.

When I work with families, enrichment means:

  • Giving a Scent Hound nose work opportunities instead of demanding they ignore every smell on a walk
  • Providing a Terrier with appropriate digging and shredding outlets instead of punishing their genetic drive to hunt small prey
  • Offering a Herding Dog movement-based games and jobs instead of expecting them to be calm and still all day
  • Understanding that a Livestock Guardian needs to patrol and observe rather than training them out of their vigilance
  • Recognizing that a Sight Hound might need to chase something (like a flirt pole) instead of punishing them for taking off after squirrels

Enrichment acknowledges that there are no problem behaviors, only unmet needs waiting to be understood.

The Science Behind Why Enrichment Works

Research in dog cognition, particularly the work of scientists like Brian Hare, shows us that dogs are sophisticated social learners who experience complex emotions and make decisions based on their environment, past experiences, and genetic predispositions. They’re not blank slates waiting for training—they’re individuals with histories, personalities, and needs.

When we understand behavior through the L.E.G.S.® framework, we see that:

Learning (L): Every dog has a unique learning history. A dog who’s been punished for barking hasn’t learned not to bark—they’ve learned that expressing their needs leads to conflict. Enrichment provides positive learning opportunities that teach dogs what to do, not just what not to do.

Environment (E): A dog’s physical and social environment profoundly impacts their behavior. A dog who’s understimulated, over-aroused, or living in environmental chaos isn’t being disobedient—they’re responding to their circumstances. Enrichment addresses environmental factors that create behavioral challenges.

Genetics (G): This is where breed-specific needs become crucial. A Border Collie’s need to herd isn’t a training problem—it’s genetic purpose seeking an outlet. A Beagle’s nose-to-ground focus isn’t disobedience—it’s what Scent Hounds were literally bred to do for centuries. When we provide breed-appropriate enrichment, we honor dogs’ genetic heritage instead of fighting against it.

Self (S): Each dog is an individual with their own personality, preferences, fears, and joys. What enriches one dog might stress another. True enrichment requires getting to know your specific dog—not following a one-size-fits-all training program.

What This Looks Like in Real Life

Let me give you a real example that illustrates the difference.

This is the kind of situation families often face: a young Labrador Retriever is ‘destructive’ and ‘won’t listen.’ The family has tried obedience training. Their dog knows ‘sit’ and ‘down,’ but continues to destroy shoes, dig in the backyard, and pull on leash during walks.

The obedience approach would focus on more training—stronger corrections for pulling, more consistent punishment for destructive behavior, perhaps a crate for longer periods when they can’t supervise.

The enrichment approach asks different questions:

  • How much retrieval opportunity does this Gun Dog get daily? (Genetics)
  • What does their daily routine look like? Are they getting enough physical and mental stimulation? (Environment)
  • What happens right before the destructive behavior? Is the dog bored, anxious, or understimulated? (Learning)
  • What is this specific dog’s personality and energy level? Do they prefer water retrieves? Food puzzles? Sniffing games? (Self)

When we shift to enrichment, we might discover this Lab needs:

  • Multiple daily opportunities to carry things (Labradors were bred to retrieve!)
  • Water play or swimming several times a week
  • Sniff walks where pulling is expected and encouraged
  • Food puzzles and scatter feeding instead of bowl meals
  • Appropriate chewing outlets like frozen Kongs or bully sticks
  • A digging pit in the backyard with buried treasures

Suddenly, the “disobedient” dog isn’t destroying shoes because they’re getting appropriate outlets for their need to mouth, carry, and work. They’re not pulling on walks because they’re getting dedicated sniff time where pulling is the whole point. They’re not digging up the garden because they have a designated digging zone.

The behavior changed not because the dog learned to be more obedient, but because their needs were finally being met.

Why Obedience Often Fails (And What Happens Instead)

Here’s the uncomfortable truth: obedience training often “works” temporarily by suppressing behavior through pressure, corrections, or punishment—not by addressing underlying needs.

A dog might stop barking when punished with a shock collar, but they haven’t stopped feeling anxious, bored, or alert to perceived threats. They’ve just learned that expressing those feelings leads to pain. The anxiety remains; the communication has been silenced.

A dog might stop pulling on leash after enough leash corrections, but they haven’t stopped needing to sniff or move at their own pace. They’ve just learned that following their nose leads to discomfort. The need remains; the outlet has been removed.

This is why behavior “problems” so often return or morph into new issues. We’ve addressed the symptom without treating the cause.

Enrichment, on the other hand, provides appropriate outlets for natural behaviors. It says “Yes, you can dig—but here in this designated spot” instead of “No, never dig anywhere.” It says “Yes, you can sniff obsessively on these decompression walks” instead of “No, heeling only.”

Enrichment Isn’t Just About Toys and Puzzles

When families hear “enrichment,” they often think it means buying more toys or fancy puzzle feeders. While those can be part of enrichment, the concept is much deeper.

True enrichment includes:

Sensory Enrichment: Opportunities to use all five senses—sniffing walks, listening to nature sounds, watching the world from a window perch, exploring different textures underfoot

Physical Enrichment: Movement that matches genetic purpose—retrieval games for Gun Dogs, chase games for Sight Hounds, digging opportunities for Terriers, free running for Natural breeds

Social Enrichment: Appropriate interaction with humans and other dogs based on each dog’s social needs and preferences

Cognitive Enrichment: Problem-solving opportunities like food puzzles, scent work, learning new tricks they actually enjoy

Environmental Enrichment: Variety in daily life—new walking routes, novel experiences, safe exploration opportunities

Rest and Decompression: Yes, enrichment includes adequate sleep and downtime! Many “disobedient” dogs are actually overtired and overstimulated.

The Role of Choice in Enrichment

Here’s something that makes enrichment fundamentally different from obedience: agency and choice.

Obedience training typically removes choice. The dog must sit when told, regardless of whether they want to or feel safe doing so in that moment. They must walk at the handler’s pace, focusing on the human rather than their environment.

Enrichment provides choice. On a sniff walk, your dog chooses where to smell and for how long. During scatter feeding, they choose which path to take finding food. With multiple enrichment options available, they choose which activity meets their needs right now.

Research shows that having control over their environment reduces stress in dogs and increases their ability to cope with challenges. When dogs have opportunities to make choices throughout their day, they’re more resilient, confident, and emotionally balanced.

This doesn’t mean chaos or no boundaries. It means structuring your dog’s life so they have appropriate outlets and agency within safe parameters.

Enrichment Changes the Relationship

When I talk with families about shifting from an obedience mindset to an enrichment mindset, something profound happens in the human-dog relationship.

Instead of seeing their dog as something to be controlled and corrected, families start seeing their dog as an individual to be understood and supported. Instead of frustration over “disobedience,” there’s curiosity about unmet needs. Instead of demanding compliance, there’s collaboration toward meeting everyone’s needs—human and canine.

Dogs aren’t barometers for family emotional health because they’re perfectly obedient. They’re barometers because they’re authentic—they show us when something’s off, when needs aren’t being met, when the household system needs adjustment.

When we meet our dogs’ enrichment needs, we’re not just changing their behavior—we’re honoring who they are.

Finding the Balance

Does this mean basic cues and boundaries don’t matter? Of course not. There’s a place for teaching dogs practical skills that keep them safe and make coexistence easier.

But those cues work better when taught and practiced within a framework of met needs. A well-enriched dog has better impulse control, more resilience, improved focus, and stronger emotional regulation. They’re more capable of learning because they’re not in a constant state of stress from unmet needs.

The question isn’t “obedience OR enrichment”—it’s understanding that enrichment must come first. When your dog’s genetic needs, environmental needs, emotional needs, and individual preferences are being addressed through thoughtful enrichment, any practical skills you want to teach become exponentially easier.

What This Means for Your Family

If you’re reading this and recognizing that you’ve been focusing on obedience while your dog’s enrichment needs have been neglected, I want you to know: this isn’t about guilt. It’s about new information opening new possibilities.

The beauty of the enrichment approach is that it’s individualized. There’s no one-size-fits-all program to follow, no perfect training protocol to execute. There’s just your specific dog, with their unique combination of Learning, Environment, Genetics, and Self, waiting for you to see their behavior as communication rather than defiance.

Start by getting curious:

  • What breed or breed mix is your dog, and what were those breeds originally bred to do?
  • What does a typical day look like for your dog? Where might needs be going unmet?
  • What does your dog do when given complete freedom to choose? (This tells you what they’re intrinsically motivated to do!)
  • What environments or activities seem to bring your dog joy and satisfaction versus stress or frustration?

Your dog isn’t broken and doesn’t need fixing through obedience. They need understanding, appropriate outlets, and a life that honors who they are.

Moving Forward: From Commands to Connection

The shift from obedience to enrichment isn’t just a different training method—it’s a different philosophy of living with dogs. It’s the difference between seeing dogs as subordinates who need discipline versus seeing them as family members who deserve to have their needs met with the same consideration we’d give any loved one.

As a Family Dog Mediator, my work isn’t about teaching dogs to be more obedient. It’s about helping families understand their dogs well enough to create environments where both species can thrive together. It’s about recognizing that behavioral challenges are almost always communication about unmet needs.

When we provide true enrichment—when we honor our dogs’ genetics, support their learning, optimize their environment, and celebrate their individual selves—we don’t need to demand obedience. We get cooperation, partnership, and a relationship built on mutual respect and understanding.

That’s not just a better way to live with dogs. It’s the only way that truly honors who they are.

Filed Under: Insights

Why Does Your Dog Burrow Under Pillows and Blankets? Understanding the Need Behind the Nest

October 15, 2025 by Jenn Tan Leave a Comment

Photo by Ivan Babydov

You’re settling in for the evening, and suddenly your dog is doing that thing again—pawing at the couch cushions, circling obsessively, and burrowing themselves into a cocoon of blankets and pillows until only their nose (maybe) is visible. Or perhaps you’ve found them completely entombed under your bed pillows, looking utterly content in their fabric cave.

Is this normal? Should you worry? And more importantly—what is your dog trying to tell you?

As a Family Dog Mediator, I’m constantly reminding families that there are no problem behaviors, only unmet needs waiting to be understood. And burrowing? This is one of those behaviors that beautifully illustrates why we need to look at the whole dog—their genetics, their environment, what they’ve learned, and their individual self—rather than applying one-size-fits-all explanations.

The Ancestral Blueprint: Genetics at Work

Let’s start with the G in L.E.G.S.—Genetics. Your dog’s desire to burrow isn’t random; it’s likely written into their DNA.

Wild canids—wolves, foxes, coyotes—are denning animals. They seek out or create enclosed spaces for safety, warmth, and raising young. Dens protect them from predators, harsh weather, and provide a secure place to rest. Even though your dog has never had to dig a den in the wild, these ancestral instincts remain powerful drivers of behavior.

But here’s where it gets really interesting: not all dogs burrow equally, and breed matters enormously.

Think about terriers—dogs literally bred to go to ground, to pursue prey into burrows and tunnels. A Jack Russell Terrier burrowing under your duvet isn’t being quirky; they’re doing exactly what generations of selective breeding designed them to do. Dachshunds? Same story. These “badger dogs” were bred to tunnel into underground dens.

Then you have the Nordic breeds—your Huskies, Malamutes, and Samoyeds—who were bred to sleep in the snow. They naturally dig shallow nests to create windbreaks and insulation. Your Husky rearranging your couch cushions into a nest? That’s genetic memory at work.

Even breeds not specifically bred for earth work often show burrowing behaviors. Many small companion breeds (Chihuahuas, Italian Greyhounds, Chinese Cresteds) seek warmth and security under covers, likely because their small size and sometimes lower cold tolerance makes enclosed spaces feel safer and more comfortable.

Environment: Reading the Room (and the Temperature)

The E in L.E.G.S. reminds us that environment shapes behavior constantly. And burrowing behavior is deeply influenced by environmental factors.

Temperature regulation is huge here. Dogs don’t thermoregulate the way we do. A 68-degree house that feels perfectly comfortable to you might feel chilly to a 12-pound Italian Greyhound with minimal body fat and short coat. Burrowing under blankets creates a microclimate—a warm, insulated space that’s just right.

Conversely, some dogs burrow to stay cool, creating a barrier between themselves and direct heat sources, or seeking the cooler layer between cushions and couch.

Sensory environment matters too. Our modern homes are full of stimulation—doorbells, delivery trucks, neighbors, televisions, the hum of appliances. For some dogs, especially those who are sensitive or anxious, burrowing creates a sensory buffer. It’s not unlike how we might put on noise-canceling headphones or retreat to a quiet room when we’re overstimulated.

Consider also the emotional environment of your home. Dogs are incredible social learners and emotional barometers. Research on social referencing in dogs shows us that dogs constantly look to us for cues about how to feel about their environment. If there’s tension, stress, or unpredictability in the household, your dog might burrow more as a coping mechanism—creating a safe, predictable space they can control.

Learning: What Experience Has Taught Them

The L in L.E.G.S. is all about learning, and dogs are learning from their experiences every moment.

Maybe the first time your dog burrowed under a blanket, they discovered it was wonderfully cozy. That positive experience created an association: blanket cave = good feelings. Classical conditioning at its finest. Now, every time they seek comfort, warmth, or security, they remember that sensation and seek it out again.

Or perhaps your dog learned that burrowing gets them something they value. Do you think it’s adorable when they burrow? Do you laugh, take photos, give them attention? Congratulations—you’ve positively reinforced the behavior. This isn’t a bad thing! But it’s important to recognize that what we pay attention to, we get more of.

Some dogs learn that burrowing is a pre-sleep ritual, part of their wind-down routine. Just as we might read before bed or listen to white noise, your dog has learned that making a nest signals rest time.

And here’s something many people don’t consider: dogs who experienced stress, inadequate shelter, or cold temperatures in their past (especially rescues or dogs from uncertain backgrounds) may have learned that creating their own warm, enclosed space is essential for survival. That learning doesn’t just disappear because they’re now in a safe home—it can take time and consistent positive experiences to update those associations.

Self: Your Individual Dog’s Unique Needs

Finally, we get to the S in L.E.G.S.—Self. This is about your specific dog, their individual temperament, their current emotional state, their age, health, and preferences.

Age matters. Puppies often burrow because they’re used to being piled with littermates, and they’re seeking that warmth and companionship. Senior dogs might burrow more because they feel achy, cold more easily, or need extra security as their senses decline.

Emotional state is crucial. A dog experiencing anxiety, fear, or stress might burrow as a self-soothing behavior. Pay attention to when the burrowing increases. Is it during thunderstorms? When visitors come over? When you’re away? This behavior might be telling you something important about your dog’s emotional needs.

Health considerations can’t be ignored either. Dogs in pain sometimes seek out soft, supportive surfaces and enclosed spaces. A dog who suddenly starts burrowing more might be dealing with joint pain, a fever, or gastrointestinal discomfort. If the behavior changes significantly or seems excessive, a vet check is always warranted.

Individual personality plays a role too. Some dogs are just more comfort-seeking, more nest-oriented, more “den dogs” than others—even within the same breed. Just as some humans are natural homebodies who love being cocooned in blankets while others prefer open spaces, dogs have individual preferences.

What Your Dog’s Burrowing Might Be Telling You

So when you see your dog burrowing, what should you be thinking about?

“Am I meeting my dog’s breed-specific needs?” If you have a terrier who burrows constantly, are they getting enough appropriate outlets for those earth-dog instincts? Snuffle mats, dig boxes, and tunnel toys might give them a healthier way to express those genetic drives.

“Is my home’s environment comfortable for my specific dog?” That 70-degree thermostat setting might be perfect for you but uncomfortable for your thin-coated, low-body-fat companion. A heating pad, dog bed with raised sides, or additional blanket access might make a huge difference.

“What is my dog’s emotional state?” If burrowing has increased, what else has changed? Are they getting enough mental stimulation? Physical exercise? Decompression time? Are there new stressors in the home? Dogs don’t burrow to spite us or because they’re “weird”—they’re communicating something about their needs.

“Is this behavior part of their natural, healthy repertoire or a sign something needs attention?” A dog who occasionally burrows and seems content is probably just doing dog things. A dog who suddenly starts burrowing obsessively, seems unable to settle, or shows other changes in behavior needs our attention—and possibly professional help.

Supporting Your Burrowing Dog

Rather than trying to stop burrowing (unless it’s truly problematic), consider supporting it:

  • Provide appropriate outlets. Dog beds with built-in covers, blankets they’re allowed to nest with, or even a designated “burrow spot” on the couch.
  • Respect their need for a den space. If your dog creates a blanket cave, let them have it. This might be how they decompress and feel safe.
  • Monitor for changes. Sudden increases or decreases in burrowing behavior warrant attention.
  • Consider the whole picture. Use the L.E.G.S. framework to understand what your dog might need. Is it warmth? Security? An outlet for genetic drives? Mental enrichment? Physical exercise?

The Bottom Line

Your dog’s burrowing behavior isn’t random, isn’t “just being weird,” and definitely isn’t something to punish or discourage without understanding the need behind it. Like all behavior, it’s communication—your dog telling you something about who they are, what they need, and how they’re experiencing their environment.

When we stop seeing behaviors as problems to fix and start seeing them as needs to understand, we become better advocates for our dogs. We move from asking “how do I make them stop?” to asking “what are they trying to tell me?”—and that shift changes everything.

Because at the end of the day, your burrowing dog isn’t being difficult. They’re being a dog—wonderfully, perfectly, individually themselves. And that deserves our understanding, not our judgment.


Does your dog burrow? What have you learned about what they’re communicating through this behavior? Understanding the needs behind the nest might be the key to meeting your dog where they are.

Filed Under: Genetics

What “Walking Your Dog” Really Means: A Breed Group Guide

October 11, 2025 by Jenn Tan Leave a Comment

We’ve all heard the advice: “A tired dog is a good dog.” But here’s what most people miss—the way your dog gets tired depends entirely on what they were bred to do.

When we talk about “walking” our dogs, we often think it’s all about the physical exercise—the distance covered, the steps taken. But for many dogs, that’s missing the point entirely. Understanding your dog’s breed group helps you meet their needs in ways that actually matter to them.

Let’s break down what “going for a walk” truly means for each of the 10 breed groups.

1. Scent Hounds: It’s All About the Nose

For your Beagle, Bloodhound, or Coonhound, walking isn’t really about walking at all—it’s about smelling. These dogs were bred to follow scent trails for miles, often with their noses glued to the ground.

What they actually need: Long, leisurely sniff walks where they can fully investigate scents. Think 20 minutes of dedicated sniffing over an hour of brisk walking. Let them work those incredible noses—it’s mentally exhausting in the best way.

The payoff: A scent hound who’s been allowed to properly use their nose will come home cognitively spent and satisfied.

2. Sight Hounds: The Need for Speed

Greyhounds, Whippets, and Salukis were built to spot movement from a distance and chase it down in explosive bursts of speed. A slow neighborhood stroll? That’s like asking a sprinter to only ever walk laps.

What they actually need: Safe opportunities to run—really run. This might mean a securely fenced area, a long line in an open space, or lure coursing activities. Yes, they also need gentle leash walks, but those don’t scratch the itch to stretch their legs at full speed.

The payoff: Even just 10-15 minutes of hard running can satisfy their genetic need in ways hours of slow walking cannot.

3. Livestock Guardians: Patrol and Surveillance

Your Great Pyrenees, Anatolian Shepherd, or Maremma wasn’t bred to hike with you—they were bred to patrol a perimeter and make independent decisions about potential threats.

What they actually need: Walks that allow them to move at their own pace, pause to survey their environment, and check things out. They need to feel like they’re monitoring their territory, not being rushed through it. These dogs often prefer to walk with you rather than be directed by you.

The payoff: Slower, more deliberate walks where they can stop, look, and assess. They’re working security detail, not training for a marathon.

4. Herding Dogs: Motion and Purpose

Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, and Belgian Malinois were bred to work all day moving livestock with precision and focus. A simple walk around the block? That’s not even a warm-up for these dogs.

What they actually need: Movement with a job attached. This might mean structured training during walks, practicing tricks, playing fetch with direction changes, or even walking with a purpose like carrying a backpack. They crave engaged movement—not just distance.

The payoff: Mental engagement plus physical activity. A herding dog who’s been asked to think while moving will be genuinely satisfied.

5. Northern/Spitz Breeds: The Long Haul

Huskies, Malamutes, and Samoyeds were bred to pull sleds over long distances in harsh conditions. They have endurance for days and often a strong desire to just keep going.

What they actually need: Longer adventures where they can move steadily—hiking, bikejoring, or pulling activities. These dogs often need more distance and duration than other breeds, and they typically love cooler weather for it.

The payoff: True aerobic exercise that taps into their cardiovascular stamina. A 20-minute walk barely touches their capacity.

6. Terriers: Hunt and Dig

Jack Russells, Cairn Terriers, and Airedales were bred to hunt vermin—to dig, chase, grab, and shake. They’re tenacious, determined, and always “on.”

What they actually need: Walks that incorporate opportunities to dig (in appropriate spots), investigate holes and crevices, and play tug or chase games. These dogs benefit from activities that let them “hunt” and use their grab-and-shake behaviors appropriately.

The payoff: A terrier who’s gotten to express these natural behaviors will be much more settled than one who’s just walked on pavement.

7. Gun Dogs/Sporting Dogs: Retrieve and Range

Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Spaniels, and Pointers were bred to work with hunters—finding, flushing, and retrieving game. They love having a job and using their mouths.

What they actually need: Walks that incorporate retrieval games, swimming (when possible), and ranging behaviors. Let them carry something on walks, practice retrieves, or search for hidden objects. They’re happiest when they’re working with you.

The payoff: Physical exercise combined with the satisfaction of doing what their bodies were designed to do—carry things, swim, and hunt cooperatively.

8. World Dogs: Generalist Survivors

Village dogs, mixed breeds, and dogs without specific breed functions fall into this category. These are the ultimate generalists—adaptable dogs who weren’t bred for a single purpose but rather to survive and thrive in diverse environments.

What they actually need: World Dogs are often the most flexible of all groups. They typically benefit from variety—different routes, different types of activities, opportunities to problem-solve. Many are naturally balanced between physical and mental stimulation needs, though individual variation is high.

The payoff: Adaptability is their strength. A walk that offers novelty, choice, and opportunities to engage naturally with their environment often satisfies them best. Think enrichment through exploration.

9. Bull & Terriers: Power and Intensity

American Pit Bull Terriers, Staffordshire Bull Terriers, and American Bulldogs were bred for strength, determination, and intense focus. They bring enthusiasm and power to everything they do.

What they actually need: Structured walks with clear boundaries, plus outlets for their strength like pulling activities (drag weights, spring poles used appropriately) or power play. They benefit from activities that let them use their impressive physical strength purposefully.

The payoff: These dogs need both physical outlets and mental structure. They thrive when their power is channeled into appropriate activities.

10. Companions/Toy Dogs: Social Connection

Cavaliers, Pugs, Maltese, and Havanese were bred primarily to be with people. While they still need exercise, their primary need is often social engagement and proximity to their humans.

What they actually need: Walks are as much about being with you as they are about exercise. These dogs often enjoy social walks where they can meet people, shorter adventures that match their size, and activities focused on connection.

The payoff: A walk where they feel connected to you meets their deepest genetic need—companionship.

The Bottom Line

When we say “walk your dog,” we’re often oversimplifying what our dogs actually need. Understanding your dog’s genetic blueprint helps you meet their real needs, not just tire them out.

  • Is your dog physically exhausted but still anxious? Maybe they need different mental stimulation.
  • Does your dog seem unfulfilled despite long walks? Perhaps you’re missing what they were actually bred to do.
  • Is your dog pulling you down the street while ignoring everything you say? They might need a completely different kind of outing.

The most important walk isn’t the longest one or the fastest one—it’s the one that honors who your dog actually is. When you align your walks with your dog’s genetic needs, you’ll find both of you coming home more satisfied.


Understanding your dog through the lens of genetics is just one part of the L.E.G.S.® framework (Learning, Environment, Genetics, Self). When we honor all four components, we create truly harmonious relationships with our dogs.

Filed Under: Genetics

Why “One Size Fits All” Dog Training Will Never Work: What the Science Actually Tells Us

October 9, 2025 by Jenn Tan Leave a Comment

Photo by John Tuesday on Unsplash

If I had a dollar for every time someone told me “just be consistent and use positive reinforcement,” as if that’s all it takes to solve every dog behavior issue, I could probably afford a lifetime supply of high-value treats. The problem isn’t that consistency and positive reinforcement are wrong—they’re foundational. The problem is the assumption that a universal method applied the same way will work equally well for every dog.

The science of dog cognition tells us something very different: dogs are individuals shaped by complex, interacting factors that make generic training approaches ineffective at best and harmful at worst.

The Science Behind Individual Differences

Research in dog cognition, particularly the work of Brian Hare and his colleagues, has fundamentally changed our understanding of how dogs learn and behave. We now know that dogs are incredibly sophisticated social learners who don’t simply respond to commands like biological robots. They’re constantly reading our emotional states, anticipating behavior patterns, and adapting to the complex social structures we create around them.

What researchers call “social referencing”—the way dogs look to humans for information about how to respond to situations—means that dogs are processing far more than just whether they’ll get a treat for sitting. They’re reading tension in your voice, inconsistencies between family members, and the emotional climate of your household. A Border Collie in a chaotic, unpredictable home will show completely different behaviors than the same genetic dog in a calm, structured environment.

This is why the one-size-fits-all approach falls apart: it ignores the reality that dog behavior emerges from the interaction of multiple complex systems, not just training technique.

The L.E.G.S.® Framework: Understanding the Whole Dog

The L.E.G.S.® framework—which examines Learning, Environment, Genetics, and Self—provides a science-based structure for understanding why generic training methods fail to address the root causes of behavior.

Learning: Context Is Everything

Dogs don’t learn in a vacuum. A dog who can “sit” perfectly at home might completely fall apart at the dog park. Their learning is context-dependent, affected by stress levels, excitement, environmental factors, and their emotional state.

Generic training programs assume that if you teach a behavior in one context, the dog should be able to perform it everywhere. But research shows this isn’t how learning works for dogs (or humans, for that matter). Learning is state-dependent and context-specific.

A reactive dog who’s in a heightened state of arousal isn’t “refusing” to respond to previously learned commands—their nervous system is in survival mode, and the cognitive centers required for learned behaviors are temporarily offline. Telling their owner to “just be more consistent” ignores the neurological reality of what’s happening in that dog’s brain.

Environment: More Than Just Physical Space

When we talk about environment in the L.E.G.S.® framework, we’re not just talking about whether you have a yard or live in an apartment. We’re talking about the emotional climate of the household, the predictability of routines, the level of chaos or calm, and the consistency (or inconsistency) of human behavior.

I’ve seen “difficult” dogs transform almost overnight when moved to a more structured, emotionally stable environment—with zero change in training methods. Because the issue wasn’t training technique; it was that the dog was living in a state of chronic stress from an unpredictable, emotionally charged household.

Generic training programs can’t account for this. They assume all dogs are living in reasonably stable environments with consistent caregivers. For many dogs, that assumption is false.

Genetics: Bred for Different Jobs, Wired for Different Behaviors

Here’s where the science gets really clear about why one-size-fits-all fails: dogs were selectively bred for thousands of years to perform specific jobs, and those genetic predispositions don’t disappear just because we’re not using them for their original purposes anymore.

A Border Collie’s herding instincts, a terrier’s prey drive, a guardian breed’s suspicion of strangers, a retriever’s desire to carry objects—these aren’t “behavior problems” that need correcting. They’re genetically ingrained traits that were deliberately selected for over hundreds of generations.

Training a guardian breed to be immediately friendly with strangers goes against their genetic wiring. You can manage it, you can teach impulse control, but you’re fighting biology. Similarly, trying to train a high-drive herding breed to be calm and sedate in a small apartment with minimal mental stimulation isn’t a training challenge—it’s an impossible ask.

Generic training programs often treat all “problem behaviors” the same way, as if reactivity in a German Shepherd happens for the same reasons and requires the same approach as reactivity in a Cocker Spaniel. The science tells us this is nonsense. Genetics matter enormously, and effective behavior modification must account for breed-specific traits and individual temperament.

Self: Every Dog Is an Individual

Even within breeds, every dog is unique. Litter mates raised in identical environments can have vastly different temperaments, stress responses, and learning styles. Some dogs are more resilient, some more sensitive. Some are food-motivated, some aren’t. Some have higher arousal thresholds, some are constantly vigilant.

This individual variation means that what works beautifully for one dog might completely fail for another—even dogs of the same breed, same age, and same household.

I’ve worked with families who have two dogs from the same litter. One responds beautifully to standard positive reinforcement protocols. The other finds food rewards overstimulating and actually performs better with calm praise and environmental rewards. Same genetics, same environment, completely different individuals.

Why the Generic Approach Causes Harm

When we apply one-size-fits-all training methods without considering these factors, we don’t just fail to solve problems—we often create new ones.

The anxious dog who needs predictability and calm gets subjected to high-energy, stimulation-based training that escalates their stress.

The high-drive working breed gets told they’re “too excited” and needs to “calm down” when what they actually need is appropriate outlets for their genetic drives.

The guardian breed gets labeled “aggressive” for being suspicious of strangers when they’re simply doing exactly what they were bred to do.

The sensitive dog gets labeled “stubborn” when they shut down from training methods that feel too forceful for their temperament.

In every case, the failure isn’t the dog’s. It’s the training approach that refuses to see the individual in front of them.

What Actually Works: Individualized, Science-Based Approaches

Effective dog behavior support isn’t about finding the “right” training method. It’s about understanding the whole dog—their learning history, their environment, their genetics, and their individual personality—and creating an approach that works WITH those factors rather than against them.

This means:

  • Assessing the dog’s environment and emotional climate before assuming the issue is purely behavioral
  • Understanding breed-specific traits and working with genetic predispositions rather than fighting them
  • Recognizing individual differences in temperament, sensitivity, and learning style
  • Adjusting expectations based on realistic understanding of what’s possible for this specific dog
  • Addressing root causes (stress, unmet needs, unclear communication) rather than just suppressing symptoms

The Bottom Line

The science is clear: dogs are complex individuals shaped by learning history, environmental factors, genetics, and unique personalities. One-size-fits-all training ignores this complexity and treats dogs as interchangeable units that should all respond identically to the same methods.

They’re not. And they won’t.

Real behavior change comes from understanding the specific dog in front of you and creating an individualized approach that addresses their actual needs—not just applying a generic protocol and hoping for the best.

The dogs have been trying to tell us this all along. Maybe it’s time we started listening.

Filed Under: Genetics

We’re Not Being Difficult—We’re Being Responsible: A Dog Rescue Volunteer’s View

October 4, 2025 by Jenn Tan Leave a Comment

Photo by Alexander Grey on Unsplash

“Your adoption application is so long!”

“Why do you need to do a home visit?”

“Other rescues don’t ask this many questions.”

“You’re making it too hard to adopt a dog.”

As a volunteer for a dog rescue, these complaints come up regularly. The pressure to streamline adoption processes is real—from frustrated applicants, from critics on social media, from well-meaning supporters who just want to see dogs leave the shelter quickly.

But here’s what those critics don’t see: the returned dogs, the heartbroken families, the preventable tragedies that happen when rescues prioritize speed over thoroughness.

The Real Cost of “Easy” Adoptions

Working in rescue means witnessing firsthand what happens when vetting is skipped to speed up adoptions. Everyone pays the price:

The dog experiences the trauma of another failed placement, develops new behavioral problems from the stress, and becomes harder to place successfully with each return.

The family feels guilt and failure, sometimes faces dangerous situations they weren’t prepared for, and may never adopt again because of the traumatic experience.

The rescue deals with the emotional toll on staff and volunteers like myself, spends resources managing preventable crises, and damages its reputation when placements fail publicly.

Future adopters face even stricter processes as rescues overcorrect after bad experiences, and dogs with similar profiles get passed over because of one bad match.

What Thorough Vetting Actually Protects

Physical Safety

Some matches aren’t just unsuccessful—they’re dangerous. A large, strong dog with barrier frustration placed in a home with small children and no fencing. A dog with resource guarding tendencies going to a family with toddlers who don’t yet understand boundaries. A dog with a high prey drive placed with a family who has pet rabbits.

These aren’t hypothetical scenarios. As volunteers, we see them happen regularly when rescues prioritize speed over safety. Thorough vetting identifies these mismatches before they become tragedies.

Emotional Wellbeing

A dog with severe separation anxiety placed with a family who works full-time outside the home will suffer daily. A high-energy working breed going to elderly adopters who can’t provide adequate exercise will become frustrated and destructive. A shy, sensitive dog entering a chaotic household with young children will live in constant stress.

These dogs aren’t “bad fits”—they’re living in environments that prevent them from ever feeling secure or happy. No amount of good intentions compensates for fundamental incompatibility.

Financial Stability

Adopters deserve to know what they’re taking on financially. A dog with ongoing medical needs requires adopters who can afford long-term veterinary care. A dog with behavioral challenges may need professional training support. A large breed puppy will have significantly higher food and healthcare costs than a small adult dog.

When rescues aren’t transparent about these realities, families face impossible financial decisions down the road—often resulting in the dog being returned or, worse, neglected. Those of us in rescue see these heartbreaking situations unfold, knowing they could have been prevented with better upfront communication.

Long-Term Success

The goal isn’t just to get dogs out of the shelter—it’s to get them into homes where they’ll thrive for their entire lives. A successful adoption means the dog never enters the rescue system again. That only happens when the match is right from the start.

What Good Vetting Looks Like

Understanding the Adopter’s Real Life

It’s not enough to know someone “wants a dog.” Good vetting explores:

  • What does their typical day actually look like?
  • What experience do they have with dogs, particularly dogs with challenges?
  • What are their realistic expectations for exercise, training, and behavioral management?
  • How will they handle common challenges like house training accidents, destructive chewing, or initial adjustment period struggles?
  • What support systems do they have in place?
  • What would cause them to return the dog?

These questions aren’t invasive—they’re necessary to understand whether someone is prepared for the specific dog they’re interested in.

Matching Lifestyle to Dog Needs

A working professional who loves hiking on weekends might be perfect for a high-energy dog who can settle during the workday. That same person would be a terrible match for a dog with severe separation anxiety.

A retired couple with all day at home might be ideal for that anxious dog but completely wrong for a young, energetic breed that needs intense physical activity.

Good vetting identifies these nuances rather than applying one-size-fits-all criteria.

Honest Conversations About Challenges

Every dog has challenges, especially rescue dogs. Thorough vetting includes honest discussions about:

  • What the adjustment period really looks like
  • What behavioral challenges might emerge and how to address them
  • What resources are available for support
  • What constitutes a solvable problem versus a fundamental incompatibility

Adopters who are prepared for realistic challenges are far more likely to work through them than those who were led to believe adoption would be seamless.

Assessing Problem-Solving Approach

How adopters respond to hypothetical challenges tells rescues a lot about how they’ll handle real ones:

“What would you do if the dog had accidents in the house for the first month?”

“How would you handle it if the dog showed fear around your children?”

“What if the dog destroyed furniture while adjusting to being left alone?”

Answers reveal whether someone views challenges as problems to solve collaboratively or dealbreakers requiring return.

Addressing Common Objections

“You’re Being Too Picky”

Being selective isn’t the same as being unreasonable. Rescues that carefully match dogs to appropriate homes have higher success rates and lower return rates. That’s not being picky—that’s being responsible.

Every dog who returns to the shelter takes up resources that could help another dog. Every failed placement makes that dog harder to place successfully. Careful vetting prevents waste and protects the dogs who are counting on us.

“Good Homes Will Go Elsewhere”

Good adopters understand that thorough vetting protects them too. They appreciate rescues that take the time to ensure good matches because they want a successful adoption as much as the rescue does.

Adopters who are genuinely prepared for the responsibilities of dog ownership aren’t deterred by thorough applications—they’re reassured by them.

“Dogs Are Sitting in Shelters Too Long”

A dog who waits an extra month for the right home is better off than a dog who gets adopted quickly into the wrong home, gets returned, develops new behavioral problems from the stress, and becomes difficult to place at all.

Time in a stable shelter environment with proper care is preferable to the trauma of failed placements. As volunteers who spend time with these dogs, we see how much damage a failed adoption does to them. The goal is permanent homes, not quick exits.

“We Need to Compete With Pet Stores and Breeders”

Rescues don’t need to compete by lowering standards. They compete by offering something breeders and pet stores can’t: transparency, support, and dogs whose personalities are fully known.

The adopters who want convenience over compatibility aren’t the adopters who will succeed with rescue dogs anyway. Let them go elsewhere. Focus on the adopters who value the thorough approach.

Building a Sustainable Vetting Process

Efficient Doesn’t Mean Easy

Good vetting can be streamlined without being superficial. Technology helps:

  • Online applications that can be completed at the adopter’s convenience
  • Video calls for home visits when in-person isn’t practical
  • Standardized questions that still allow for nuanced answers
  • Clear timelines so adopters know what to expect

Efficiency is about respecting everyone’s time, not about cutting corners on assessment quality.

Transparency at Every Step

Adopters deserve to understand why rescues ask specific questions. Explaining the reasoning behind vetting requirements reduces frustration:

“We ask about your work schedule because some of our dogs need someone home during the day due to separation anxiety, while others are fine being alone. This helps us match you with a dog who fits your lifestyle.”

“We do home visits to look for safety concerns like unsecured pools or gaps in fencing that might be dangerous for certain dogs. It’s about protecting both you and the dog.”

Supporting Success After Adoption

Thorough vetting continues after adoption:

  • Check-ins during the adjustment period
  • Access to behavior support resources
  • Clear communication about when to ask for help
  • Creating a culture where adopters feel comfortable reaching out before small problems become big ones

The rescue’s job doesn’t end at adoption—it extends through the critical adjustment period and beyond.

The Ethical Imperative

Every dog that comes into rescue care depends on the humans in charge to make good decisions on their behalf. These dogs can’t advocate for themselves. They can’t say “this home feels wrong” or “I’m not compatible with this family.”

As volunteers, we become their voice and their protection. That responsibility demands thoroughness, even when it’s inconvenient, even when it’s criticized, even when it means dogs wait longer for homes.

When Vetting Reveals Incompatibility

Sometimes thorough vetting reveals that an adopter isn’t right for a specific dog—or isn’t ready for dog ownership at all. These are hard conversations, but they’re necessary ones.

Saying no to a bad match isn’t giving up on the dog or rejecting the adopter—it’s protecting both. It’s redirecting the adopter toward a better match or toward resources that will help them prepare for future dog ownership. It’s giving the dog a chance at a truly successful placement rather than a quick failure.

The Bottom Line

Thorough adopter vetting isn’t about making adoption difficult. It’s about making it successful.

Every question asked, every reference checked, every home visit completed is an investment in a permanent placement. It’s insurance against preventable returns. It’s protection for dogs who have already experienced too much instability and uncertainty.

The criticism will continue. Frustrated applicants will complain on social media. Other organizations with looser standards will move dogs faster. But none of that changes the fundamental truth: careful matching protects everyone involved and creates the lasting placements every rescue dog deserves.

The dogs in our care have already experienced abandonment, instability, or worse. They deserve advocates who will take the time to get it right—even when getting it right takes longer, even when it’s harder, even when it’s unpopular.

As volunteers who dedicate our time to these dogs, we owe them nothing less than our best effort to find them truly compatible homes. That’s not making adoption too difficult. That’s making it responsible.


The author volunteers with a dog rescue organization and is a certified Family Dog Mediator and Good Dog Academy Professional Dog Trainer specializing in rescue dog behavioral assessment and placement support.

Filed Under: Insights

Form Follows Function: Why Your Dog’s Job Should Guide Your Choice

October 2, 2025 by Jenn Tan Leave a Comment

Photo by James Haworth on Unsplash

When scrolling through social media or walking through the neighborhood, it’s easy to fall in love with a dog’s appearance. That fluffy coat, those piercing blue eyes, or that perfectly compact size can capture our hearts instantly. But choosing a dog based on looks alone is like buying a sports car to haul lumber—you might end up with something beautiful that can’t do what you actually need.

The Real Cost of Form Over Function

Dogs weren’t bred to be living sculptures. Each breed was developed for specific work: herding sheep, hunting game, guarding property, or providing companionship. When we ignore these deeply ingrained purposes and select purely on aesthetics, we often create problems for both ourselves and our dogs.

Consider the person who chooses a Border Collie because they’re gorgeous and highly intelligent, but lives in a small apartment and works long hours. That dog’s herding instincts don’t disappear just because there are no sheep around. Instead, they might try to “herd” children, chase cars obsessively, or develop destructive behaviors from unused mental energy.

Matching Energy to Lifestyle

A dog’s function directly relates to their energy requirements and exercise needs. Working breeds like German Shepherds, Australian Cattle Dogs, and Jack Russell Terriers were bred to work all day. They need jobs—real or manufactured ones. If your idea of weekend adventure is binge-watching Netflix, a high-energy working breed will likely become your biggest source of stress rather than joy.

On the flip side, choosing a dog whose function aligns with your lifestyle creates harmony. If you’re an avid hiker, a breed developed for endurance work might be perfect. If you want a calm companion for quiet evenings, breeds developed primarily for companionship will likely fit better.

Special Considerations for Rescue Dogs

When adopting from shelters or rescues, the form-over-function trap becomes even more problematic. Many rescue dogs end up homeless precisely because their original families chose them for the wrong reasons—often based on appearance, size, or impulse rather than compatibility.

Shelter staff and rescue volunteers are invaluable resources for understanding a dog’s actual needs and temperament. They’ve observed these dogs in various situations and can tell you whether that adorable Husky mix actually needs three hours of exercise daily, or if the gentle-looking pit bull mix is actually reactive with other dogs.

Mixed breeds in shelters often carry the traits of their dominant breeds, but these aren’t always obvious from appearance alone. A small, fluffy dog might have significant terrier genetics that manifest as high prey drive and stubborn independence. That medium-sized, calm-looking dog might be part cattle dog and become destructive without proper mental stimulation.

Ask shelter staff or the rescue about the dog’s history if known, their behavior in different situations, exercise requirements, and any behavioral challenges. Many rescues also offer foster-to-adopt programs that let you experience the dog’s true personality in your home environment before making the commitment permanent.

Temperament Runs Deeper Than Training

While training can modify behavior, it can’t fundamentally change a breed’s temperament. Guardian breeds will always be somewhat suspicious of strangers—that’s not antisocial behavior that needs fixing, it’s their job. Terriers will always have prey drive. Retrievers will always want to carry things in their mouths.

For rescue dogs, these traits can be modified by their experiences, but the underlying genetic tendencies remain. A rescue dog who was poorly socialized might be more intense in displaying breed-typical behaviors. However, these traits can be managed and channeled appropriately with patience and understanding. The key is working with a dog’s natural instincts rather than against them.

The Health Connection

Form-focused breeding often emphasizes extreme physical features that can compromise health and function. The shortened airways of flat-faced breeds, the back problems common in elongated breeds, or the joint issues in giant breeds often result from prioritizing appearance over the dog’s ability to breathe, move, and live comfortably.

Many rescue dogs come from backgrounds where health wasn’t prioritized, but mixed breeds often have fewer genetic health issues than purebreds due to hybrid vigor. However, rescue dogs may come with unknown health histories, making it even more important to choose based on current functional needs rather than just appearance.

Finding Your Functional Match

Start by honestly assessing your lifestyle, living situation, and what you want from a dog relationship. Are you looking for a jogging partner, a gentle family companion, a watchdog, or a couch buddy? How much time can you realistically dedicate to exercise, training, and grooming?

When working with shelters or rescues, be upfront about your lifestyle and expectations. A good rescue organization wants to make successful matches and will help guide you toward dogs whose needs align with what you can provide. Don’t be offended if they suggest a different dog than the one that caught your eye—they’re trying to prevent future surrenders.

Consider fostering first if possible. This gives you a realistic picture of what life with that dog would be like and helps you determine if their needs truly match your capabilities.

When the Perfect Match Isn’t Perfect Looking

Some of the best rescue dogs might not photograph well or catch your eye immediately. The overlooked senior dog might be perfectly content with gentle walks and lots of couch time. The plain-looking mixed breed might have the exact energy level and temperament you need. The dog with one ear or a slight limp might be functionally perfect for your lifestyle.

Rescue organizations often have dogs who’ve been returned through no fault of their own—simply because form was chosen over function. These dogs deserve families who understand and appreciate them for what they can offer rather than just how they look.

Beauty in Purpose

This doesn’t mean you have to choose an ugly dog. Most breeds are beautiful in their own right, and there’s something particularly attractive about a dog doing what they were bred to do well. A Border Collie moving sheep with intense focus, a Golden Retriever swimming after a duck, or a Mastiff calmly watching over their family—these dogs exhibit a beauty that comes from purpose and fulfillment.

When function guides your choice—whether you’re buying from a breeder or adopting from rescue—you’re more likely to end up with a dog who’s not only physically appealing to you but also mentally satisfied, behaviorally manageable, and genuinely happy. That contentment and harmony creates its own kind of beauty—one that deepens rather than fades over time.

The right dog for your life isn’t necessarily the most Instagram-worthy one. It’s the one whose natural instincts, energy level, and temperament allow both of you to thrive together. In rescue situations, it might be the dog who’s been waiting the longest because people overlooked their perfect personality in favor of flashier options. Choose wisely, and you’ll have a beautiful partnership built on compatibility rather than just good looks.

Filed Under: Insights

Beyond the Dog Park: Building Real Socialization Skills in Urban Environments

October 1, 2025 by Jenn Tan Leave a Comment

Photo by Rui Alves on Unsplash

Why your dog park visits might be creating more problems than they solve—and how to build genuine social confidence in the city.

Common advice: dogs need socialization, cities have dog parks, so spend lots of time there. But after years of observing, and now helping urban guardians with reactivity and anxiety issues, I’ve learned dog parks often create more problems than they solve.

Real socialization isn’t cramming in maximum dog interactions. It’s building confidence, communication skills, and ability to navigate complex city social situations.

Why Dog Parks Often Fail Urban Dogs

The Reality:

  • City parks packed beyond capacity
  • Dogs can’t escape when uncomfortable
  • Overstimulation leads to poor decisions
  • Mixed messages: not ALL dogs should be greeted enthusiastically
  • Genetics ignored—not all dogs enjoy group situations

Counterproductive Results:

  • Learned reactivity from negative experiences
  • “Overstimulation addiction”—normal interactions become boring
  • Poor social skills—pushy, rude behavior
  • Guardian stress affecting dog confidence

Genetics-Informed Socialization Needs

Gun Dogs: Cooperative Learning

Need: Structured activities, human-dog teams, purposeful interactions Better than dog parks: Training classes, organized walks, parallel activities

Herding Dogs: Controlled Environments

Need: Predictable routines, clear rules, manageable social situations Better than dog parks: Small consistent groups, structured classes

Guardian Dogs: Selective Socialization

Need: Respect for natural selectivity, comfortable distance observation Better than dog parks: Neutral territory walks, allowing natural pace

Terriers: Appropriate Outlets

Need: One-on-one interactions, human-focused activities, impulse control Better than dog parks: Individual playdates, structured adventures

Sight Hounds: Low-Key Opportunities

Need: Calm, quiet interactions respecting sensitive nature Better than dog parks: Group walks, café visits, parallel relaxation

Scent Hounds: Investigation-Based

Need: Exploration time while other dogs present, environmental focus Better than dog parks: Sniffing walks, urban exploration groups

Real Urban Social Skills Needed

Skill 1: Neutral Coexistence

Urban dogs encounter dozens of dogs daily—most encounters should be neutral, not social.

  • Practice parallel walks near other dogs
  • Reward calm behavior around dogs
  • Gradually decrease distance while maintaining calm

Skill 2: Appropriate Greetings

Confined urban spaces require controlled interactions.

  • Teach “wait” before any dog greeting
  • Practice with known, stable dogs
  • Build reliable recall around other dogs

Skill 3: Environmental Confidence

Social confidence requires environment confidence.

  • Practice training in complex urban environments
  • Build positive associations with city elements
  • Reward calm exploration of new spaces

Skill 4: Human Social Navigation

Urban dogs interact more with humans than dogs.

  • Practice polite greetings with invited interactions
  • Ignore inappropriate human attention
  • Remain calm in crowded human environments

Better Alternatives to Dog Parks

Structured Classes: Controlled environment, professional supervision, specific goals

Urban Adventure Groups: Real-world practice, varied environments, purposeful activity

Parallel Training: Learning while dogs present without forced interaction

Café Socialization: Human social practice, calm environments

Walking Groups: Familiar routes, consistent members, natural movement

Creating Your Plan

Assessment (Weeks 1-2): Evaluate current skills, identify goals based on genetics Foundation (Weeks 3-8): Basic skills in low-distraction environments Development (Weeks 9-16): Add complexity gradually, monitor progress Application (Week 17+): Real-world practice, handle unexpected encounters

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Reactive to other dogs: Address root cause (fear/frustration), focus on distance Too excited around dogs: Manage arousal, teach impulse control Ignores you around dogs: Build relationship value, use better rewards Fine with dogs, reactive to people: Focus on human socialization skills

The Bottom Line

Quality over quantity. Success isn’t measured by dog park hours—it’s your dog’s ability to navigate urban social situations with confidence while respecting their genetic predispositions.


Build Real Social Confidence for City Living

Ready to move beyond the dog park chaos and build genuine social skills that work in the real urban world? My ebook “The Urban Dog Dilemma: A Genetic Guide to City Living” includes the complete genetics-informed socialization system that creates confident, well-adjusted city dogs.

You’ll learn:

  • How to assess your dog’s genetic socialization needs
  • Breed-specific alternatives to problematic dog parks
  • The four essential urban social skills every city dog needs
  • How to build environmental confidence that supports social success
  • Troubleshooting guides for reactivity, over-excitement, and fear
  • Progressive training plans that respect your dog’s individual temperament

Stop forcing your dog into situations that work against their nature. Get the socialization system that builds genuine confidence through genetics-informed approaches.

[Get “The Urban Dog Dilemma” ebook now → https://books2read.com/b/urbandogdilemma

Filed Under: Urban Living

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